Reference
The garments sourcing glossary
A buyer decides in the first two emails whether the other side knows the trade. These are the words.
The three familiesFabric and weightCommercial termsSampling, in orderQuality controlComplianceDocuments
The three families
- Knit
- Loops of yarn. Stretches. T-shirts, polos, hoodies, underwear. Bangladesh's largest category.
- Woven
- Warp and weft crossed at right angles. Shirts, trousers, jackets, denim.
- Sweater
- Knitted panels linked together, not cut from fabric. Its own machinery and seasonality.
Fabric and weight
- GSM
- Grams per square metre. 140 to 160 is a light tee, 180 to 200 standard, 220 and up heavy.
- Yarn count (20s, 30s, 40s)
- Higher means finer. 30s is the workhorse for tees; 40s is finer and softer.
- Combed cotton
- Short fibres removed before spinning. Smoother and stronger than carded.
- Single jersey
- The basic t-shirt knit. Smooth face, looped back.
- Pique
- Textured waffle knit. The classic polo fabric.
- French terry
- Loops on the inside, flat face. Lighter sweatshirts.
- Fleece
- Terry with the loops brushed into a pile. Winter hoodies, 280 to 340 GSM.
- Twill
- Diagonal weave. Chinos, workwear, cargo pants. Denim is a twill.
- Denim weight (oz)
- Ounces per square yard. 8 to 10 light, 11 to 13 standard, 14 and up heavy.
- Gauge (GG)
- Sweater needles per inch. 3GG chunky, 7GG mid, 12GG fine.
Commercial terms
- MOQ
- Minimum order quantity, usually per colour. The number that decides whether a small brand can buy.
- FOB
- Free on board. Price with goods loaded at the port. The standard basis for Bangladesh.
- CIF
- Cost, insurance and freight to your port.
- CMT
- Cut, make, trim. The factory's labour charge when the buyer supplies fabric.
- Lead time
- Order confirmation to shipment. 60 to 90 days is typical.
- LC
- Letter of credit. Bank guaranteed payment against documents.
- TT
- Bank transfer, commonly 30 percent advance and 70 percent against documents.
- PI
- Proforma invoice. The quote that becomes the contract when signed.
Sampling, in order
- Proto sample
- First attempt from the tech pack. Proves the design can be made.
- Fit sample
- Correct measurements in the base size.
- Lab dip
- Fabric swatch dyed to match your colour standard.
- PP sample
- Pre production. Correct fabric, trims and print. Bulk starts only after written approval.
- TOP sample
- Top of production, pulled from the bulk run.
- Shipment sample
- Kept from what shipped, for reference.
Quality control
- AQL
- Acceptable quality limit. 2.5 is the common standard; 1.5 is strict.
- Inline inspection
- During sewing, while problems can still be fixed.
- Final random inspection
- At 80 percent packed.
- Third party inspection
- SGS, Bureau Veritas, Intertek. Their report overrules everyone's.
Compliance
- BSCI
- European social audit. Very widely requested.
- WRAP
- Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production. Common with US buyers.
- GOTS
- Global Organic Textile Standard, with chain of custody.
- OEKO-TEX
- Tested free of harmful substances.
- Accord / RSC
- Building, fire and electrical safety.
Documents
- Tech pack
- The specification a factory quotes from: sketches, measurements, fabric, trims, colours, labels.
- BOM
- Bill of materials. Every fabric and trim with its supplier and quantity.
- T and A calendar
- Time and action. Every milestone with its date.
- Nominated supplier
- A trim supplier the buyer insists on, often for zips or labels.
Have a tech pack and a question?
Send it. A person replies within one working hour.