Shoes, your colours
Lab dips matched to your standard before bulk dyeing. Tap a shade.
Private label
Your main label, care label, hangtag and polybag. Nominated trims accepted.
Footwear is not apparel. It has its own lasts, its own machines, its own construction methods and its own minimums, and a garment factory cannot make a shoe however good it is at jackets. The single decision that governs everything else is the construction: cemented, stitchdown, Goodyear welted or direct injected. This page covers the shoes we would source, what to specify, and where our bench honestly stands.
We are a sourcing desk in Dhaka. We do not own a factory, and we will be direct: we do not have a tannery or a footwear unit on the bench. Bangladesh has a real footwear sector and we have not vetted a unit in it yet. Read the note below, and read the rest anyway, because the specification does not change with the factory.
Leather shoe types we source
Derby Shoe
Open lacing, the quarters stitched over the vamp. More forgiving on a high instep than an oxford and easier to make well.
Oxford Shoe
Closed lacing, the quarters stitched under the vamp. Cleaner and less forgiving, and the pattern where a weak unit shows.
Loafer
No lacing, a slip on with a saddle or a penny strap. The fit comes entirely from the last and the topline, so the last matters more here than anywhere.
Monk Strap
Buckle across the vamp, single or double. Hardware plus a closed pattern, so it is priced above a derby.
Chelsea Boot
Elastic gusset at the sides, a pull tab, ankle height. The gusset quality is the whole product: a cheap elastic loosens in a season.
Chukka Boot
Two or three eyelet ankle boot, usually unlined or half lined, often in suede. The simplest boot to make and a good first order.
Leather Sneaker
Cupsole or vulcanised, leather upper, usually cemented. A different unit again from a dress shoe, and often a different factory entirely.
Moccasin
Wrapped construction with the sole stitched up and around the foot. A specialist make, soft and unstructured.
Construction, the decision that sets everything
Cemented. The sole is glued to the upper. Cheapest, lightest, the majority of the market, and not resoleable. Ask for the adhesive and for a bond strength result, because a failed bond is the complaint that defines cheap footwear.
Direct injected. The sole is moulded straight onto the upper. Very durable, very consistent, needs a mould per size and style, so the tooling cost means it only makes sense at volume.
Stitchdown. The upper is flanged out and stitched to the sole. Robust, visible, common on boots.
Goodyear welted. A welt is stitched to a rib on the insole and the sole is stitched to the welt. Resoleable, heavy, expensive, and a genuinely different class of unit. Very few factories anywhere do it well; ask to see the welting machine, not a photograph.
Say which construction you want at the enquiry. It changes the factory, not just the price.
Lasts, sizing and fit
The last is the form the shoe is built on and it is the shoe's fit. A unit will have its own lasts; using theirs is cheap and using yours means cutting a set, which is a real cost and a real lead time.
Ask for:
- The size system you sell in: UK, EU or US, and they do not convert cleanly
- The width fitting, because a single width will not serve every market
- The size run and the quantity per size, which on footwear is a much longer curve than apparel
- A fit sample in your sample size and a wear test before bulk. A shoe that measures right and walks wrong is still wrong.
Footwear minimums are usually stated per size run rather than per style, and they are higher than apparel: expect several hundred pairs as a floor, more for direct injection because of the moulds.
Upper, lining and sole
Upper leather. Type, layer, animal, tannage, thickness and finish, same discipline as any leather product. For footwear, ask specifically about flex resistance, because an upper that cracks across the vamp after a season is a leather fault and not a make fault.
Lining. Leather, textile or unlined. A leather lining costs more and wears far better against a foot.
Insole and footbed. Ask what is under the foot: a board, a cushioned footbed, a removable insole. This is where cheap shoes save money invisibly.
Sole. Leather, rubber, TPR, EVA or a cupsole. Ask for slip resistance if the market requires it and for abrasion resistance regardless.
Where our bench stands
Said plainly, because a page that implied otherwise would earn an enquiry we would then have to duck: we hold knit, woven, sweater, denim and outerwear plants. We hold no tannery and no footwear unit. Footwear needs lasts, clicking presses, lasting machines, sole presses and often welting machines. Nothing on our bench is a step towards it.
Footwear is also the category on this site where we would be slowest to promise anything, because the minimums are high, the tooling is real and a first order is a bigger commitment than a garment trial. If you are exploring, say so and we will tell you honestly whether the volume you have in mind is worth anyone's time.
What we will do with an enquiry: go into the footwear cluster, find the units that run your construction, visit them, take your specification in, and come back inside five working days with a quote from a unit we have stood inside, or a straight no.
If your buyer requires LWG certification on the tannery, say it at the enquiry: it narrows the list sharply.
What to send with your enquiry
- A sample pair to copy, or a technical drawing with the last shape described
- The construction: cemented, direct injected, stitchdown or Goodyear welted
- Upper leather type, layer, tannage, thickness and finish
- Lining, insole and sole specification
- Size system, width fitting, and the size run with quantity per size
- Whether you require LWG certification on the tannery
- Any slip or abrasion standard the market requires
- Quantity per colour, your target price and your ship date
Quality control, which we do regardless of whose unit it is
Inline inspection while the line runs. Final inspection to AQL 2.5 unless your standard differs, with the photo report before the goods move. On footwear we check sole bond strength on a sacrificed pair, last shape and size against the chart in three sizes, left and right symmetry, upper flex at the vamp, stitch density on welted and stitchdown constructions, lining and footbed against the spec, eyelet and hardware security, and shade continuity between hides across a pair, because two slightly different shades on one pair is the fault a customer spots instantly.
Get a quote for shoes
Tech pack or sketch with quantities per colour. A compared quote in 48 hours.


